13th century Middle Class Christian Woman

The Underdress

The original underdress was a copper linen rectangular construction dress that I made for an Anglo-Saxon ensemble. That dress has since succumbed to age and overuse, so I need to make a new underdress with a cut more appropriate for the period.

The Overgown

The overgown (pellote) is made from a heavily fulled dark green flannel with hanging sleeves lined in silk taffeta. The gown is intentionally cut longer than my height to mimic the lengths seen in period imagery; however, it’s really inconvenient for everyday life, and I’m planning to shorten it for daily wear.

The sleeves are attached halfway around the armscye, with the rest left open. It’s just enough room that I can maneuver my arms inside when I get cold.

The Toca & Cofia

This set of headwear is a much simplified version of the extreme tocado alto seen in images of high-ranking noblewomen of the 13th century.

The cap (cofia) beneath the tocado is commonly seen made of netting (or possibly sprang). However, for cold weather wear, I decided to model my cofia after the cofia of Infante Fernando (see Reference Images), and make it out of linen.

Reference Images

Source: Interior tunic of Dona Teresa Gil, c. 1307. Museo del Traje, Madrid.

All images from Cantigas di Alfonso el sabio, LXIV, Guerrero L. c, 1200

Image sources

Top row L to R:

  1. Tocados feminina

  2. 13th century head of a woman. Original photo by artinconnu on Flickr.

  3. Cantigas di Alfonso el sabio, LXIV, Guerrero L. c, 1200

  4. Cantigas di Alfonso el sabio, LXIV, Guerrero L. c, 1200

Bottom row L to R:

  1. Back detail, Cofia of the Infante Fernando, c. 1211. Convent of Las Huelgas, Burgos.

  2. Side detail, Cofia of the Infante Fernando, c. 1211. Convent of Las Huelgas, Burgos.

  3. Back detail, Cofia of the Infante Fernando, c. 1211. Convent of Las Huelgas, Burgos.