Jewish Women’s Clothing

Reader’s Note: One of the challenging aspects of researching Jewish clothing in the medieval period is distinguishing between the images presented by non-Jewish artists from those presented by Jewish artists. I feel that it’s of paramount importance to try to present Jewish figures as they are perceived and created by Jewish persons, rather than trying to shift through the layered political and social meaning that weight down non-Jewish portrayals.

For this reason, I’ve primarily chosen to use images drawn from Jewish sources; namely, the many 14th century Spanish Haggadot (liturgical texts, used at Seder, based on the Exodus story).

Crossing the Red Sea. A leaf from the Sarajevo Haggadah. (Courtesy of National Museum of Bosnia and Herzegovina.)

Saya/Gonela

Most depictions of Jewish women in Haggadot are (necessarily) of Biblical figures, but they generally follow the Spanish trend to use depictions of contemporary dress.

In this image, the young women, led by Miriam (far left) are wearing the long, loose tunic dress seen in the Christian kingdoms. Some are buttoned and the wrist, and the red gonela at center is buttoned partway down the front.

14th c. Kaufmann Haggadah (MS Kaufmann A 422)

Cota

In the depiction of Miriam to the left, Miriam wears a blue cota with green tippets and pocket slits over a pink/orange saya. The cota buttons down the full front, and has a wide shallow neckline.

Beside her is another woman, wearing a pink/orange cota with green pocket slits over a green saya.

The figure below wears a fitted red cota with buttoned sleeves.

The Celebration of the Seder. 14th c. The Rylands Haggadah. John Rylands Library.

1320-1330. Dance of Miriam (Ex. 15:20). The Golden Haggadah. British Library MS 27210.

saya encordata

This figure of Miriam is portrayed in a pink lace gown (saya encordata) over a red saya.

Veils

L to R:

  1. The Flight From Egypt. 1320-1330. The Golden Haggadah. British Library MS 27210.

  2. The Dance of Miriam.1275-1324. The Hispano-Moresque Haggadah.

  3. 14th c. Kaufmann Haggadah (MS Kaufmann A 422)

  4. Crossing the Red Sea. A leaf from the Sarajevo Haggadah. (Courtesy of National Museum of Bosnia and Herzegovina.)