Men: Second Layer

Cota

Cote or cotehardie

  • over garment (although it could also go directly over the shirt or jubon),

  • simple cut, loose, closed,

  • round neckline

  • with sleeves a little shorter than those of the saya or without sleeves,

  • skirt closed or open

Start to finish:

  1. Andres Marzal de Sax. Retable of St George (detail) c. 1400 Tempera on wood, 670 x 486 cm (full retable) Victoria and Albert Museum, London

  2. ?

  3. Retablo de la leyenda de Santa Lucía", Maestro de Estamariú (1357 - 1385)

  4. Andres Marzal de Sax. Retable of St George (detail) c. 1400 Tempera on wood, 670 x 486 cm (full retable) Victoria and Albert Museum, London

  5. Andres Marzal de Sax. Retable of St George (detail) c. 1400 Tempera on wood, 670 x 486 cm (full retable) Victoria and Albert Museum, London

  6. 1340-42. Book of Hours of Queen María de Navarra, Ferrer Bassa and circle, (detail )

  7. 1334. Jaime I, Llibre de franqueses i privilegis del Regne de Mallorca, copista Romeu des Poal (detalle)

  8. Principios del siglo XV, Los Reyes Magos delante de Herodes (detalle)

  9. H. 1396. Frontal funerario de la capilla de Ayala, Quejana (Álava), Instituto de Arte, Chicago (detalle)

  10. H. 1390. Maestro del Monasterio de Piedra, procedente del Relicario del Monasterio de Piedra, Real Academia de la Historia, Madrid (detalle)

Pellote

The sleeveless pellote with large slits on the sides (allowing the garment underneath to be seen completely) was a uniquely Spanish fashion. The front and back were often quite narrow

  • The neckline was split or round

  • Men’s pellotes tended to be short (knee length)

  • Often had dagging on the skirts

  • Often made in taffeta

  • Frequently striped, or decorated with heraldic emblems

L to R:

  1. H. 1300. José de Arimatea, anónimo, Fundación Godia, Barcelona (detalle)

  2. 1343. Deed of King Don Jaime, University of Barcelona (detail)

  3. Cathedral de Teruel.

  4. 1327. Sepulcro obispo Gonzalo de Hinojosa, capilla de San Gregorio, Catedral de Burgos (detalle)

Hopalanda/Hopa

It was a luxury garment, an overgown to wear at ceremonies or celebrations.

  • large, voluminous in appearance,

  • Floor, trained, or mid-calf

  • Closed front

  • large sleeves

  • generally with a collar

  • If collarless, the neck opening was wide

  • loose or cinched at the waist by an intricate belt

  • different fabrics according to season

  • In winter it was lined with fur.

  • For long hopas, and to be able to walk easily, an opening was made in the front or on the sides from the knee to the ground or from mid-thigh.

L: Adoration of the Magi. Lluis Borrassa.

C: Presentation of Veronica's cloth to Abgar, altarpiece of Santa Clara, Luis Borrassá, 1414-15, Episcopal Museum of Vic

R: Epifanía, Pedro Serra, 1390, colección particular (detalle)