Women: First Layer

Saya/Gonela

Gown

• Castile = saya, Aragon = gonela

• Worn over the camisa

• Floor length

• Saya encordada: laced down one side (opposite the lacing on a camisa encordada)

• 1390s: influences of International Gothic style

  • necklines widen (sometimes enough to show shoulders)

  • Highly fitted and supportive through torso

  • First appearance of tippets

Start to finish:

1. Retablo de la Resurrección, hermanos Serra, 1361-62, Museo de Zaragoza (detalle)

2. —

3. Hacia 1359, Vida de S. Juan Bautista, taller de hermanos Serra, Museo del Prado, Madrid (detalle)

4. Cathedral of Teruel.

5. 1343-45. Mural de la capilla de San Miguel, Jaime Ferrer Bassa, Monasterio de Pedralbes, Barcelona (detalle)

6. 1343-45. Mural de la capilla de San Miguel, Jaime Ferrer Bassa, Monasterio de Pedralbes, Barcelona (detalle)