Women: Second Layer

Cota

over garment (although it could also go directly over the shirt or jubon), simple cut, loose, closed, with a round neckline and a small opening in the front to pass the head, with sleeves a little shorter than those of the saya or without sleeves, and with the skirt closed or open.

Start to finish:

  1. Cota is particolor red and green with slit sides. 1343-45. Mural de la capilla de San Miguel, Jaime Ferrer Bassa, Monasterio de Pedralbes, Barcelona (detalle)

  2. Detail of the altarpiece of Saint George and the Virgin, preserved in the church and former convent of San Frencesc in Vilafranca del Penedes. 14th. Lluis Borrassa.

  3. 1335. Artesonado de la Catedral de Teruel (detalle)

  4. 1390. Viga mudéjar, lugar donde se encuentra desconocido (detalle)

  5. School of Lattagona: Altarpiece from the Castle of Santa Coloma de Queralt. c. 1365. Museu d'Art de Catalunya, Barcelona

Pellote

The sleeveless pellote with large slits on the sides (allowing the garment underneath to be seen completely) was a Spanish fashion. The front and back of women's pellotes were often as narrow as a handspan

  • The neckline was split or round

  • Men’s pellotes tended to be short (knee length)

  • Often had dagging on the skirts

  • Often made in taffeta

  • Frequently striped, or decorated with heraldic emblems

L: 1335. Artesonado de la Catedral de Teruel (detalle)

R: "French" pellote. 1360-80. El festín de Herodes, Iglesia de Santa Coloma de Queralt, Tarragona, Museo Nacional de Arte de Cataluña, Barcelona (detalle)

Hopa/hopalanda

It was a luxury garment, an overgown to wear at ceremonies or celebrations, that appeared at the very end of the 14th century into the 15th.

  • large, voluminous in appearance,

  • Floor length, with a train, or mid-calf

  • Closed front

  • large sleeves

  • generally with a collar

  • If collarless, the neck opening was wide

  • loose or cinched at the waist by an intricate belt

  • different fabrics according to season

  • winter it was lined with fur.

  • For long hopas, and to be able to walk easily, an opening was made in the front or on the sides from the knee to the ground or from mid-thigh.

Start to finish:

  1. Santa Eulalia, Pedro Serra, ff. XIV, Diocesan Museum of Segorbe (detail)

  2. Santa Bárbara. Luis Borrassá, Hacia 1411-13, Fogg Museum, Harvard art Museum, EEUU (detalle)

  3. H. 1430-40. Saint Catherine, Bernardo Martorell, National Art Museum of Catalonia, Barcelona (detail)

  4. 1401. Guerau Gener

  5. H. 1430-40. Saint Catherine, Bernardo Martorell, National Art Museum of Catalonia, Barcelona (detail)

  6. Eleven Thousand Virgins. San Nicolás de Bari church.