Coronation of Abran & Anya II
Kingdom of Atlantia - 4/4/2025
For this reign, Abran and Anya chose 13th century Toledo as their theme, to represent unity and tolerance and the mingling of many cultures in one region. While they both love the look of high 13th century Spanish clothing, the reality is that both are way too active to go for enormously tall headwear or extremely tight clothing. In the end, we chose to go with a softer, simpler silhouette - although that did not stop us from breaking out the accursed fabric paint one more time…
We stuck with their preferred aesthetic of relaxed elegance - all the garments are linen, and nothing is overly fitted or restrictive.
Unfortunately, these were also garments of struggle and frustration. Although they ordered the linen from the same store we always use, there was something about the orange that just would not behave. It biased and crawled and stretched weirdly, and just made every task twice as hard as it needed to be.
We also fought with the stamps. Anya ordered a beautiful carved seashell stamp that didn’t arrive in time. I ordered a star stamp that didn’t arrive in time. In a last ditch desperation trip, Mariana and I found a set of star foam stamps that included one set of Star of David shapes, and we managed to acquire a different wooden shell stamp.
There was a lot of cursing, and a lot of hysterical laughing.
the inspirations
Sources L to R:
Como jogavã a pelota os mancebos ("how the young men were playing with the ball"). H. 1280-85. Cantiga de Santa María Alfonso X el Sabio, Biblioteca del Monasterios de San Lorenzo de El Escorial, Madrid, España
H. 1280-85. Cantiga de Santa María Alfonso X el Sabio, Biblioteca del Monasterios de San Lorenzo de El Escorial, Madrid, España
H. 1280-85. Cantiga de Santa María Alfonso X el Sabio, Biblioteca del Monasterios de San Lorenzo de El Escorial, Madrid, España
H. 1280-85. Cantiga de Santa María Alfonso X el Sabio, Biblioteca del Monasterios de San Lorenzo de El Escorial, Madrid, España
Abran’s garment were loosely based on 13th century men’s travel garments called garnache. He really likes hanging sleeves for a little bit of flair, and we wanted to give him something comfortable and rewearable. The undertunic is a plain orange-red 5.3 oz line with a simle round neckline, and the overtunic is a green 5.3 oz linen bound in red linen and stamped with alternating star and shell motifs.
Sources L to R:
“Cantiga 105: How the wicked bridegroom planned to do something and committed a shameful deed.” Cantiga 105, H. 1280-85. Cantiga de Santa María Alfonso X el Sabio, Biblioteca del Monasterios de San Lorenzo de El Escorial, Madrid, España
H. 1280-85. Cantiga de Santa María Alfonso X el Sabio, Biblioteca del Monasterios de San Lorenzo de El Escorial, Madrid, España
Extant pellote of Leonor de Castilla. 1244.
“Cantiga 258: Women making bread at home.” Cantiga 105, H. 1280-85. Cantiga de Santa María Alfonso X el Sabio, Biblioteca del Monasterios de San Lorenzo de El Escorial, Madrid, España
Anya loves a good sideless surcote, and luckily, 13th century Spain has a variant - the pellote. Although not as deeply cut as its 14th century descendant, the 13th century pellote was often cut much further in at the front, with the remaining material of the bodice sometimes spanning less than a hand width. We decided that might be a bit too narrow, and opted to go with a shaped front with a more modest cutaway.
Anya’s undergown is her favorite gothic fitted dress pattern sized to be pulled on over the head, in green 5.3 oz linen. Her pellote is make of orange-red linen bound in green linen, and the armholes are edged with decorative shell and star stamped designs.
The paint technique and materials are the same as we used for the Coronation I clothing and the Twelfth Night clothing.
sewing team
Magistra Beatriz Aluares de la Oya
Dama Mariana Ruiz de Medina